We had breakfast in the buffet car on the sleeper train as it was not due to arrive at Fort William until 9.50. It was enjoyable viewing the moorland at Rannoch Moor and recalling our walking holiday on the West Highland Way in 2003 when we used a local train to reach starting points such as Corrour Station for our walks.

Fort William to Mallaig

At Fort William station a steam train was waiting on the adjacent platform to carry many of our fellow sleeper passengers on the 50 miles of scenic journey to Mallaig. We watched them board while reassembling the tandem and putting on all our waterproofs before setting off in drizzle at about 10:30.

We used the main road that parallels the tracks on the north side of Loch Ein. The road traffic thinned out as we moved away from Fort William and the rain stopped as well. Wild flowers (foxgloves, rhododendrons, bluebells and broom) were plentiful on the verges.

We stopped for lunch in the National Trust Cafe by Glenfinnan Monument at the top of Loch Sheil. We continued our ride along the north shore of Loch Eilt and as we moved on, the scenery became more spectacular. After an uphill, we rode alongside a sea loch, rested by a tall railway viaduct near Lochailort and watched the daily steam train cross over. We had our first siting of the yellow irises that seemed to appear frequently on this trip.

Western Isles B and B

We stayed at the Western Isles B and B in East Road. It faces the bay and the rooms have magnificent views over the harbour with the CalMac ferries and the few remaining fishing boats. Fish dinner at the Cornerstone restaurant was very good.

We turned north following the railway across the neck of a peninsula and at Ansaig took a minor road along the coast. This single-track road was the original main road to Mallaig last time we came here (in 1989). It passes many beautiful rocky bays with sandy beaches - these must have become much more peaceful since the replacement road was built. We also had to ride a section of the new road and noted here and elsewhere that a condition of European funding seems to be the inclusion a few token cycling facilities – usually riding on the footway with big diversions to cross side roads.

This shoreline road links to a convenient  off road cycle route into Mallaig. For the first day’s ride, the conditions were just right - only a little bit challenging on the 100 m rises to the watershed between the lochs.

The evening was long - the sun falls slowly, producing beautiful colours in the sky and water, and it really never seems to get dark.