Applecross - Torridon
53 km, 969 m climbed
Wednesday 15th June 2011
We were sorry to be leaving Applecross its unusual feeling of a separate and hardy community, until very recently only accessible with considerable determination. Before leaving, we learned more of the history of Applecross at the Heritage Centre and found the remains of a partly carved celtic cross from St. Maol Rubha’s sanctuary in the churchyard. A fellow guest at Allt Arais in Raasay had told us about St Maol Rubha born in 640 in Bangor, who came to Scotland to found a new monastery and surrounding sanctuary in Applecross in 672 and is buried here. Seton Gordon refers to him as the second most important person in influencing early Christianity in Scotland (after Columba of Iona).
Until the construction of the north coast road in 1975, the only access, other than by footpath, was over the Bealach Na Ba. Gordon describes arriving at Applecross by boat met by dinghy and later, walking over the Bealach Na Ba in April 1935 when he found 6 ft of snow at the top.
The community of crofters and fishers was thriving in the 19th century, but eventually declined due to poor communications with the outside world.
Applecross House was a centre for hunting stags, built in 1675 by the Mackenzie family. It was bought by the Wills (tobacco) family in 1900 and the hunting parties continued. It was eventually taken over by the Applecross Trust.
Upper Loch Torridon is on the north shore of the Applecross peninsula. Eventually we set off on the narrow single-track road north coast and round the shore, passing through very wild landscape composed of big stones apparently hurled about; bell heather on the machair, occasionally occupied by shaggy sheep and highland cattle. We passed a few houses at Feranmore and then stopped for a picnic at Arrina where we sheltered from the rain shower in the doorway of a barn. (Stained glass and self catering accommodation in an old school house is advertised - this could be a good place to stay). It’s a very pretty hamlet with a path down to the cove.
As we continued, the number of ups and downs increased and we occasionally had to walk when the slopes exceeded about 1 in 10. Then came a big hill barring the way over to Shieldag, where we eventually stopped for a coffee and cake. Then we joined the ‘main road’ alongside Loch Torridon which was not very busy; we mounted a big hill and stopped at a viewpoint at 130m above sea level. There is a great view of Loch Torridon and the four Monros opposite (Benn Alligin, Rhuadh-mheallan, Ben Dearg and Liacthach). Down the hill and past the Torridon Hotel and at last to the Ferroch Guest House, where we were to spend the next three nights. We were greeted by tea and delicious slices of Gina’s home made cake. Later we met up with our friends William and Aniko for a meal at the Torridon Inn where we compared notes on our respective routes to Torridon, retrieved our hiking boots and sticks from their car and made plans for the walk on Benn Alligin on the next day. William had spent holidays in Torridon as a young man and wanted to walk on Ben Alligin once more; he had suggested that we should join him; that was the origin of the idea for this holiday.
We spent three nights at the Ferroch House. It is in a restored and extended croft house, just above Loch Torridon and the bedroom had a spectacular view of Loch Torridon and the mountains on the other side. The hosts, Peter had been a farmer in Hampshire and Gina had a business selling home made cakes. They were continuously very friendly and helpful. The sitting room had a good library of books and maps and after discussions with Peter, we understood that the peak Tom na Gruagich the best Monro to try for and that the path is easy to find. The way up was clearly visible from Ferroch House – go straight up and then enter a wide corrie and continue to the top when the peak will become visible.
